Diving in Vancouver - Part II
Posted By Christopher Chin on 25 August 2005
Editors Note: Following on from last weeks Part I Christopher conintues his journey around Vancouver
After I arrived in Nanaimo, I drove three blocks to the Buccaneer Inn, a cute and diver friendly lodge. There are thirteen rooms total: ten regular suites, two studios, and one large fireplace suite. Each suite features a full kitchenette, and all the rooms have free high speed wireless. If you don’t have your own laptop, they’ll lend you theirs to check your mail! I slept like a log, and not just because I had a good long day of diving, but moreso because the bed, with its pillow top and down duvet, was honestly the most comfortable I’ve ever experienced while traveling.
The proprietors, Dave and Marlene, are familiar with the unique needs of diving guests, and have created a secure drying/storage area for gear and suits. When you return from your dives, there is a fresh water rinse, and if you’ve already checked out, they have a shower and fresh towels downstairs so that you can freshen up and enjoy the rest of the day without the salty grit.
Just a few minutes from the Buccaneer Inn, you’ll find Ocean Explorers Diving, one of the oldest and most experienced dive operators in Nanaimo. The two establishments maintain a close relationship and offer convenient dive/lodging packages.
The Ocean Explorers shop is basically across the street and down the block from Buccaneer Inn. You can walk, or if your gear is less manageable, you can drive over. Generally, for the morning dives, you’ll meet at the shop at 09:00am, where you’ll be greeted by the divemaster as well as by the owner. The charter includes tanks and weights, and Nitrox is available for a nominal fee.
Ian, the owner, is one of the friendliest people in scuba, and is extremely knowledgeable about local diving, conditions, and history. Prior to boarding, Ian and his staff will help ensure that everyone is fully equipped and prepared for the trip. This “no surprises” approach is thorough and uncovered several potential “gotchas” for some of my fellow divers, but because they handle this in such a helpful and accommodating manner, missing hoses and faulty computers were replaced in a jiffy.
Ocean Explorers has two charter boats. The 22.5’ “Seastar” is quicker and can nimbly navigate sites like Dodd Narrows, where a larger craft can be unwieldy. However, if there are six or more divers on board, you’ll likely take the 53’ “Christie Bay No. 1”, a former Royal Canadian Mounted Police (RCMP) patrol boat. This larger boat has a dry area below deck that is great for changing and relaxing in between dives.
Our first dive was on the Cape Breton, a WWII Naval Vessel that was sunk in 2001 just off Snake Island. At 441’ in length, she is the second largest diver prepared artificial reef in the world (only the Spiegel Grove in Florida is larger). She lies in roughly 130 feet of water, with her deck at 110. Like most artificial reefs of this size, the Cape Breton has several mooring buoys. A favorite place to tie up is the center line which leads down to the funnel at 70’. From that midship point, you can choose to go towards the bow or stern. With good air consumption and favorable conditions, it’s certainly possible to navigate the entire ship.
She sank quite quickly, and when her 22 million tons came crashing into the ocean floor, her deck buckled and she split open on the port side, and crumpled on the starboard. It was right around the ripple in the deck where I saw my first swimming scallop. Having never seen such a thing, my first concern was that I might be narced, but as I watched the scallop flutter off and reposition itself, I knew that I just witnessed something special.
Aft of the funnel, you’ll find the skylights which lead to the engine room. Here, and at various entry points around on the wreck, you’ll find signs reminding divers that penetration should only be attempted by those with proper training and equipment. In this particular case, the engine room is also considered an advanced penetration because of the depth. While the ship rests in 130 feet, the Breton’s dramatic landing caused her keel to bury itself well past the mud line so you’ll find the bottom of the engine room well below 145 feet (depending on the tide).
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